Bend to Baja

Back in the desert

2009-04-28T11:35:00.000-07:00

I made it back to Moab late last week. After a couple weeks of great skiing at Mt. Bachelor I packed the Westy and headed to Utah. It was about 90 degrees in town when I arrived, so I went straight to Negro Bill Canyon and took Ginger for a nice hike up in the shadowy canyons. There is plenty of water there to play in, and it stays much cooler there than anywhere else in the area.

I worked last weekend at the Chile Pepper Bike Shop. It was just like the old days, hanging out with Wendy and Monty and Ryon and Tracy, renting bikes, drinking FMC, and making trail recommendations for the mountain bike tourists. The riding has been superb. I rode the La Sal Loop Road with Hanka and Eugene, who is in town for the season working at the Poison Spider. The next day T-Roy joined us for a super fast lap on Wag's Way. The wildflowers are coming out and the sand is firm from the winter's snow and the desert riding is outstanding.

The Classic Car Show also brought a bunch of folks to town last weekend. The hotels were packed and the campgrounds were full. Moab doesn't seem to be as affected by the downturn in the economy as the rest of the country. Maybe it's because gasoline is so cheap right now. Most of the ski areas in Utah and Colorado are closed so people are coming to the desert to soak up some sunshine. My tan from the winter in Mexico has long faded, so I am back on the sunscreen program...

Dia de la Bandera

2009-02-26T07:01:00.000-08:00

Once again it is flag day here in Los Barriles. There were races and dancing at the monument this year, but the flag was a much smaller version than usual. Maybe they decided to downsize it because of the wind from last year, but it wasn't as visually stunning to watch the flag-raising ceremony.

I have been very busy entertaining guests for the last few weeks. John Harley flew in early afternoon on Super Bowl Sunday. Rob and Miesha arrived later in the evening so John and I drove into San Jose to check out the new Baja Brewing Company. It is a very nice restaurant right off the main square in downtown San Jose del Cabo, and they brew some pretty good beer. We watched the football game on a big-screen television, then went to pick up the folks at the airport. We had a fun time that week, Rob took some kiting lessons, John flew the trainer kite, Miesha was ripping it up on the stand-up paddleboard, and we enjoyed many cervezas on the deck at Martin Verdugo's hotel where they were staying.

Mom flew in later in the week, after John and Miesha had left, so it was great to be reunited and catch up on old family stories. She stayed in a nice room over at Hotel Los Barriles, right in the middle of town. We had a nice drive into the mountains and down the San Bartolo arroyo before I had to take her back to the airport. I think she enjoyed seeing this part of the country, and she understands why I am drawn back here year after year...

Sky and Charlie arrived from Hood River last week and set up camp in our yard. Charlie is a kite instructor so Todd and I took advantage of his teaching skills and got out for a couple kite sessions. I had a little mishap and caught a fin on my shin. It required a couple stitches and kept me out of the water for a couple days. We had a few fun road trips to Cabo Pulmo for snorkeling and mountain biking, Canon de la Zorra for cliff jumping and swimming, and over to Todos Santos for some surfing.

Visitors from Moab

2009-01-19T07:27:00.000-08:00

It was fun to have a couple VW vans parked at our house for a few days last week. George and Teresa brought Lily the dog in their tan van, and Jesse and Kristi arrived in their blue Westy along with a new dog, Frida. It's pretty cold in Moab right now, so they came to the right place for a long holiday vacation. They drove down the mainland of Mexico, then took the ferry from Los Mochis over to La Paz. After being confined to their vehicles while crossing over the Sea of Cortez they were excited to hit the beach on a nice sunny afternoon. Everyone brought their "old school" hardtail mountain bikes with them so we had a great time exploring the singletrack and roads all over the East Cape. They took off yesterday for a quick loop around the Pacific side and through the Cabos and will be back here next week before heading up the Peninsula and back to Utah.

We have had an amazing stretch of wind since the beginning of the year. I sailed 13 of the last 14 days, and I am almost ready for a day off. We finally had the El Norte winds that we all know and love, rather than just a few days of thermals and calm days in between. I have been trying to complete the Carving 360, and I am sooo close! The water is still warm, but the nights are getting a little chilly. No complaints, though, as it is warmer than normal.

I took care of Mateo and Jackie's place while they went on a ski trip up to Tahoe. Everyone came over for dinner, and every night was "movie night" on the new bigscreen tv in Mateo's new office/playroom. The hot tub also came in very handy.

Feliz Ano Nuevo

2009-01-04T11:18:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!!! Hope everyone is healthy and happy this Winter.

As always, we had an exciting celebration on New Year's Eve. We had our weekly bonfire on the beach in front of Playa del Sol, and everyone stuck around until midnight. Then everyone in town went to Palmas de Cortez to listen to the local band that plays there every year. The party went on until 3 or 4 in the morning.

This was definitely the busiest holiday season we have ever had. We may not have as many people visit this season, on the whole, but we were booked solid for a couple weeks through the New Year. Buck and Rahel, along with Jesse and Alexa, returned for their first visit in a couple years. Luckily it was windy and everyone got to sail. Even with all the folks at the resort the water never gets too crowded. At the most you will find about 40 people spread out over the bay at one time.

Rick Lowrey took Thea, Todd, and me for a flight over the Sierra de la Laguna this week. We surveyed a few new mountain bike trail possibilities in the hills behind Los Barriles, then flew over the lagoon and past the Picacho de la Laguna, a 7000' peak in the middle of the peninsula. It was a calm morning, perfect for flying. That afternoon I drove down to Canon de la Zorra with Todd and Neil. This is the canyon just north of Agua Caliente, and it displays one huge waterfall rolling off the most beautiful granite washes. There are a couple ledges that offer some very safe cliff jumping opportunities.

Feliz Navidad

2008-12-25T16:37:00.000-08:00

Now that's a lot of gear!

2008-12-05T07:24:00.000-08:00

We finally received all our gear! It came in many separate shipments, on many different trucks, delivered by different drivers, but it made it to Los Barriles. The 2009 boards and sails look great, and the new bicycles, equipped with disc brakes now, are ready to hit the trails.

Troy and Rachel arrived for a couple weeks of vacation in Baja. They borrowed my truck for a few days of adventure in Cabo Pulmo and the San Jose del Cabo area. I guess the battery died on them when they were at Agua Caliente. A couple Mexican folks helped them out, even though they didn't have jumper cables. They took the battery out of their car, turned it upside down, and touched the terminals together to get a jump.

We will be super busy for the next couple weeks. This is the time of year when all the families arrive. We will have Kids' Camp, lots of family activities, and hopefully Santa Claus will sail down to Vela on Christmas Day. Everything is ready and the whole staff is excited about the upcoming season.

Open for business

2008-11-23T19:32:00.000-08:00

We officially opened for business on Saturday, but our first guests didn't arrive until today. That gave us a little extra time to prep things at the Vela center, build some new shelves in the retail shop, and clean up around the hotel. Unlike the last few years, it was very calm on opening day. The wind is supposed to return tomorrow, though, for at least a week's worth of fun on the ocean. As I sit here by the water writing this I can hear the waves breaking on the shore and the palm trees are already swaying in the breeze. That bodes very well for breaking in the new equipment tomorrow. We are all very excited about the season. Everything is better organized than last year, job descriptions and responsibilities have been clearly established, the gear looks fantastic, and we assembled the center in record time. Bookings are down a little bit from previous years, but that only makes sense with the elections this Fall and the ominous economic situation up North. I do, however, see many familiar names on our guest list already and I am looking forward to spending time with all the guests and old friends.

Preparing the Vela Windsurf Resort

2008-11-17T16:31:00.001-08:00

Everyone arrived safely in Los Barriles and we began assembling the center last week. Everything went very smoothly and we erected the sail tents in just two days, then built the "Velapa" on the beach in front of them. The retail center hadn't been used all Summer, so it was easy to clean and organize. Unfortunately Pedro had some lower back issues and was relegated to watching the action from the wall. I could tell how frustrated he was since he is really a "hands-on" kind of guy. He is feeling a little better now after a couple chiropractic sessions with Mark.

On Thurday we watched the full moon rising out of the Sea of Cortez, just as the sun was setting in the West. Definitely one of the most memorable and spectacular sights in Baja, especially when experienced with a couple of Leonardo's margaritas.

I drove North to La Paz on Friday with Todd and Royn to pick up some supplies. It was hot and busy and I felt overwhelmed driving around in the traffic and being in the "big city." We checked out the market and the big stores near the malecon downtown and had some pretty good fish tacos from one of my favorite vendors. On the way back we stopped at the Soriana mall to see if any new movies were showing. We were excited to find out that the new James Bond film, Quantum of Solace, had just opened that day! For only 40 pesos we could enjoy sitting in an air-conditioned theater to watch the movie, which was in English with Spanish subtitles. We drove back in the dark, which is an adventure in itself...

Back in Los Barriles, BCS, Mexico

2008-11-02T07:56:00.000-08:00

I am back in Baja for the Winter, ready to start work for the Vela Windsurf Resort in Los Barriles, BCS. My friend Todd and I left Los Angeles one morning and made it to Punta San Carlos by sunset the same day. There we met up with Pedro and Finch and Marlies, who had been there for a while already. San Carlos is one of the most famous wave-sailing spots in the world. It is a gorgeous point a couple hours south of El Rosario on the Pacific Coast. I always explain to people how the roads in Baja are like filters: the longer and tougher the road, the more beautiful and special is the beach at the end. The road to San Carlos is legendary, but the truck made it through in just under 2 hours.

We didn't have any wind the first few days there, but luckily there is an excellent network of technical singletrack to ride so Todd and I explored most of the area on our mountain bikes. One day Pedro and Meredith and Todd and I took a hike up to the canyon rim that looks over the whole bay. It was very hot, but the views were stunning. The waves continued to roll in, as well, so we were able to spend a few hours each day surfing and paddling around the bay.

I finally did have the opportunity to get out on the water as it was windy the last couple days of our visit. The waves were about 5-6 feet and super smooth. It was intimidating at first trying to get through the swell and past the breaking waves out to the smooth water, but I was surprised at how easy it really is to just float over the white water. I managed to catch a few waves and that made the whole trip worth it...

We left Punta San Carlos early on Monday and made it to Mulege by sunset. Todd and I splurged on a hotel room at Hotel Mulege to take advantage of a hot shower for the first time over a week. Another long day of driving the next day and we made it all the way to Los Barriles. I was getting more excited with each passing kilometer as we made it through El Triunfo, San Antonio, and finally San Bartolo. From there it is a sharp descent down to my Winter home in the East Cape. It really felt like coming home. I am looking forward to this season much more than recent years.

The town is really quiet right now. It is that time of year when the fishing is winding down and the Winter thrill-seekers have yet to arrive. It has been windy the last couple days, so I have been out on the Sea of Cortez sailing for as long as my arms can hold onto the boom. It has been too hot to explore the mountain bike trails, but I am hoping they won't take too much work. The tropical storms that went through the Baja this Fall brought lots of moisture, but not much of the wind that topples the trees and cacti. The desert is greener than I have ever seen, everything is blooming and looking vibrant.

Everyone else should be showing up within the next couple days. Then we will start constructing the sail tents and palapas and put together the retail shop and wait for our gear to arrive...

Wag's Way

2008-10-14T22:21:00.000-07:00

The first big storm of the season came through Moab on Saturday, bringing lots of snow and wind and colder temperatures. When the clouds parted we could see that the La Sals were covered, pretty much bringing an end to the high-alpine riding for the year. I feel very fortunate to have spent some time there before it closed down.

But the snow and rain and cold just mean that it is time for some desert riding! Hanka and I rode out to Gemini Bridges and up to Gold Bar Rim to follow the "blue dot" trail over to the Portal Trail. This is a singletrack route along the slickrock of Gold Bar Rim, above Poison Spider Mesa. It is a technical, windy trail that requires great route-finding skills. The next day T-Roy joined us once again and we rode Wag's Way, which is a route that Todd Wagner showed us a while ago. It is also known as "slickrock for adults" since it has a good deal of exposure and there are some steep, tough climbs that you really have to commit to making, otherwise you will slide down the rock quite a ways...

I wrapped up the trip with a classic ride through Hidden Valley and over to Bartlett Wash. There is no established trail in this area, it is just a wide-open expanse of rock with lots of ledges and compressions and steep slopes. It is one huge playground for mountain bikes. This is where the Test of Metal freeride competition has been held in the past, where every rider gets to make up his or her own lines and judges rate the technical aspects and how much air everyone catches!

Trans La Sal

2008-10-04T09:31:00.000-07:00

I made it down to Moab very early on Wednesday morning, driving straight through the night all the way from Oregon. The Westy ran beautifully and it felt great to be on the road and mobile again. Pulled straight up to the Love Muffin Cafe, Wes and Penelope's new coffee/breakfast spot, and was instantly overwhelmed by seeing all my old friends and acquaintances. Within an hour Hanka had a shuttle set up and we headed into the mountains to take advantage of the Fall colors and cooler temperatures. Troy and Randy had the day off from working at the Poison Spider and the Chile Pepper, so we had a pretty fast crew.

Unfortunately we had some afternoon thunderstorms roll in that shortened our route. We decided to drop down Schumann's Gulch to Oowah Lake, then climbed back up to Geyser Pass. The weather was still a little suspect, so we continued across the Trans La Sal Trail to a new piece of singletrack called Hell's Canyon. It is a super-steep descent with some tight switchbacks that leads right down to Pack Creek, just south of Ken's Lake. It turned into quite the adventure, and we made it down to the pavement just as the sun was setting. I felt lucky to catch the changing colors at the prime time.

The next day I caught a shuttle up to Geyser Pass with Kyle and Acme Shuttle. I rode over Burro Pass and descended down to Moab on the other side of the La Sals. There was a little bit of snow on the highest part of the trail, but it warmed up quickly by the time I arrived at the Kokopelli Trail and jumped on the UPS and LPS singletrack. There was a huge fire this Fall that burned a section of Kokopelli's, but everything else was just as I remembered it. Once again it was approaching dark by the time I rolled into town.

Friday morning looked a little ominous in the mountains, so we decided to stick to the desert riding closer to town. Hebdog had the day off from running Rim Tours, so he led the charge out to Amasa Back, the Pothole Arch, and back down Rockstacker. We had a little rain, but mostly clear skies. It didn't take very long at all to get used to riding the ledgy, technical slickrock sections. Everything felt familiar and comfortable and I had a great time riding on the red rocks once again.

North Umpqua River

2008-09-19T21:21:00.000-07:00

I had the chance to guide a 3-day mountain bike tour last week along the North Umpqua River NRT (National Recreational Trail). There are some huge fires along the route, unfortunately, so Highway 138 was closed from Tokotee Lake down towards Roseburg. That meant we could only spend one day on the Umpqua, before heading north towards Oakridge. On the way down we stopped for gas in Chemult and encountered the Bicycle Adventures crew who were escaping the Crater Lake area and looking for an alternate route since their road ride route was interrupted as well. I pointed them towards the Cascade Lakes and we drove off in opposite directions.

I shared the duties of riding, cooking, and cleaning with Woody Starr, the founder of Cog Wild Bicycle Tours. It was fun to catch up with him as we haven't ridden together at all this Summer. Our guests were a bunch of friends who flew down from White Horse, way up in the Yukon Territory of Canada. They were all pretty capable riders so the whole crew stayed together most of the time. The weather was warm during the day, but you can tell that Fall is on the way from the cold temperatures at night.
After leaving the North Umpqua we headed towards Timpanogas Lake for a couple days of high-alpine riding. We did a loop around Cowhorn and Sawtooth Mountains, with an out-and-back to Indigo Lake. The next day we dropped down the Middle Fork of the Willamette, which goes all the way down to Hills Creek Reservoir outside of Oakridge, Oregon. The conditions were perfect and everyone was excited about the riding, even if we couldn't complete the whole Umpqua route.

Scorcher

2008-08-19T11:21:00.000-07:00

This last week was the hottest one we have had in Oregon so far this year. I went camping in SW Washington for some mountain biking and road riding, and to try and find some cooler weather. I met up with the Cone Man, and we caravaned out to a nice campsite off FR88, situated on a nice saddle looking over at Mt. Adams. We rode a long loop on the Forest Service roads through Trout Lake, and over towards Mt. St. Helens. The next day we took the mountain bikes down the road to drop in on the Lewis River Trail, which I hadn't ridden in over 10 years! It is truly one of the nicest river trails in the NW, up there with the McKenzie and the Umpqua Rivers in terms of beauty and technical, rooty, muddy singletrack. It was very hot and humid and I probably lost about 10 pounds through sweating. The bonus was that we had the cold river next to us the whole time, and the swim at the end of the trail kept me from passing out in the shade somewhere. We heard that it had been 103 degrees back in Hood River.

By the time we made it back to Oregon we decided that it was too hot to ride, and we needed some time for recovery, so we spent the afternoon out at the Devil's Punchbowl, out towards Lost Lake on the Hood River. There are some huge cliffs to jump off, into some deep and cold water. Downriver is a small beach to lounge on, and Ginger was able to swim and play and cool down for a while. On the way back to Todd's place we stopped and checked out a rope swing under Tucker Bridge. Mr. Simmler showed the local kids how to make the most out the swing before dropping in.

I almost didn't mind working back here in Bend this weekend. We have air-conditioning in the shop so I was able to stand around and talk about bikes and gear and watch the Olympics on the big-screen. The annual Bend Brewfest was set up in the Les Schwab Amphitheater all weekend, so I pedaled down there after work. Not a bad way to beat the heat!

Best of Bend

2008-08-07T14:25:00.000-07:00

Pine Mountain Sports was voted Best Outdoor Shop for the third straight year. The sponsors at The Source Weekly magazine put together a celebratory party at the Silver Moon Brewery tonight. There is a new restaurant on the east side of town, named Hola, that catered the event. They were preparing various types of lobster and pulled-pork empanadas that were just out of this world. It turned into a late night downtown as everyone wanted to keep the festivities going...

Gorge Games

2008-07-31T11:32:00.000-07:00

The Gorge Games returned this Summer with new promoters and event planners and a bunch of new events to attract athletes and spectators. I raced the Short Track mountain bike race on Friday morning. There were a bunch of big names present, including Mark Weir and the whole Santa Cruz team from California. It was a short and brutal race, with an unfortunate bottle-neck at the beginning that strung out the field early. After the morning race, Shawn Hanka and I decided to go pre-ride the Super-D course out in Post Canyon. It was being held on a trail called Borderline, which I rode a couple months ago with Todd and Laurie and Linda and Pete. The trail was fun when it was hard-packed and firm, but as the Summer has progressed the whole Post Canyon area has gotten very dusty, blown out, and downright dangerous at high speeds. We decided to save our money and go watch some events and ride elsewhere.

One of the more interesting sports was the skateboard slalom which was staged on Columbia Street, right in front of the Full Sail Brewery. There were two sets of pylons lined down the street that the skaters tried to maneuver through as quickly as possible. There was also the introduction of a Riverboarding competition over on the White Salmon River in Washington. It was a downriver race where participants jumped in the river on an inflatable boogie-board, decked out with helmets, pads, and flippers. They raced down the river as fast as possible, through freezing whitewater, rapids, and eventually dropping over Husum Falls. Crazy...

There was a great concert at the Marina on Saturday. Pepe and the Bottle Blondes got the crowd dancing as the sun set at the West end of the Gorge. Then the March Fourth Marching Band from Portland dazzled the crowd with their acrobatics and exciting rhythms.

Todd and Shawn and I loaded up the truck and headed over to the Siouxson Creek Trail by Mt St Helens on Sunday. I hadn't ridden out there for many years, so it was exciting to return to one of my favorite singletracks in the NW. There was a bunch of blowdown and snow, unfortunately, so we were turned around before the top of Huffman Peak, but we still got in plenty of riding and climbing. It was the perfect way to wrap up another epic weekend in HR.

Rossland, BC

2008-07-06T11:46:00.000-07:00

Jonas and Anna have owned a small house up in Rossland, BC, for the last few years. Unfortunately, they decided to sell it this Summer so, before the new owners moved in, I joined them for a quick bike vacation up there. I drove up right after work on Saturday, arriving at about 4am when it is already light out so far North. I had a quick nap, then we went exploring the trail system on Red Mountain. The town of Rossland is very quiet in the Summer. I think most people visit here for the skiing in the Winter. We happened to be there on Canada Day, so most businesses were closed for a few days. There are no traffic lights in town, and only one small, expensive grocery store. But it is also known as the mountain bike capital of BC. The trails are definitely challenging, and are more technical than most of the singletrack back in Oregon. There is even a skills park in the middle of town for folks to practice riding skinnies and teeter-totters and wall-rides and tabletops.

We packed in many kilometers of riding in the next few days, including an epic trip up to Nelson, about an hour to the North. The folks at the shop in town suggested we ride Paper Bag, a classic ride in this area. There are steep slabs of granite and long ribbons of continuous rock to ride, plus the occasional man-made feature off to the side. The weather was pretty hot. I don't remember sweating so much while riding. I was soaked more so than I had ever been in Moab or even in Baja! Maybe it was because of all the lush trees and flowers and the lower elevation. The country up here is beautiful, with steep canyons and dense forests and scree fields and tons of wildlife. We never saw any bears, but saw their tracks and scat quite frequently.

The snow was melting pretty quickly on the higher peaks, and by the last day of our trip we were able to ride the entire Seven Summits Trail. We trudged through a few snowbanks, but it was another clear and sunny day and we could follow the trail pretty easily. This route is one of IMBA's Epic Rides, and you can see why with stunning views off both sides of the ridges that connect these peaks. We rode to the trailhead from town, then added a bonus descent down the Dewdney Trail at the end of the route. We were barely able to walk all the way to the fridge to finish off the Deschutes beer we had brought with us. Certainly packed in a bunch of rides that week...

Old Faithful

2008-06-13T18:59:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was the warmest day we have had in Central Oregon in many weeks. I felt compelled to take out the Salsa, my oldest and hardiest and most reliable mountain bike, for an afternoon ride on the local trails. I looked "old school" as I donned my plum-smuggler Castelli riding shorts and a super thin racing jersey, threw a tube and an inflator in my back pocket, and rode out Century Drive towards the new COD Trail. I felt almost naked without my 25lb guide pack and baggy shorts. This feeling, coupled with the fact that the rigid bike is almost 10lbs lighter than my Santa Cruz, gave me such a weightless and unfettered feeling. I made a couple bonus loops and rode longer than I had intended. I didn't notice until I jumped out of the singletrack and onto the road at Phil's Trailhead that I had even forgotten my water bottle.

Mud season

2008-06-05T08:31:00.000-07:00

The weather really can't decide which season this really is, or what it wants to do. Today it might not even reach 50 degrees for a high here in Bend. I went for a long, exploratory ride yesterday above Tumalo Falls to see where the snow level was on the Mrazek Trail. I rode up the 500 road to where the singletrack crosses. There were drifts that were about 6' tall that covered the trail. After getting lost a couple times I went back to the 700 road and went down to the next intersection, hiking through a lot of snow. I finally hiked down the Mrazek Trail to where it was more rideable. There are quite a few trees down, and the snow won't be gone from these North-facing hillsides for a while. The rest of the mountain biking trails in the area are in the best shape I have ever seen them.

All good in the Hood...

2008-05-30T18:49:00.000-07:00

It smells like Spring is finally on its way to the Pacific Northwest. Even with the recent rain here in Oregon, the snow has been melting quickly and some of the high Alpine trails are opening up. The wildflowers are just now starting to show their colors on the freshly-thawed peaks.

We had quite the lineup of music for Memorial Weekend: Modest Mouse, Death Cab for Cutie, The National, The Breeders, and more. Michael Franti and Spearhead were the headliners on Friday night, with Built to Spill opening up for them. I was hanging out on "cheapskate hill" with Jonas and Anna when, in-between the bands, Franti himself came rolling up to us on a tiny pink cruiser bike. We shook his hand and talked about his movie "I Know I'm Not Alone" which we had seen the previous night. He surveyed the scene, the view, and the weather, then went rolling back towards the stage to start his show. I don't think anyone else on the hill noticed him, even though he is about 6 1/2 feet tall with long dreads...

I went up to Hood River for a few days and, surprisingly, the weather was clear and sunny and warm. The Columbia River is still very cold, but I was really looking forward to enjoying some wind sports and cruising around on the water. The wind didn't cooperate with my plans, but the mountain biking and road riding was a blast. I explored a couple new areas, like Nestor Peak, that I had never ridden before and somehow avoided all the poison oak that is so vibrant and abundant this Spring.

The riding in Bend is very good right now. The trails are cleared to Lower Whoops Trail and you can ride up to Skyliner Snow Park. The rain has packed down all the dust on the trails and conditions are as perfect as they get. I guided a tour for Cogwild Bicycle Tours this weekend, so business is picking up already.

What's been goin' on?

2008-05-28T08:30:00.000-07:00

The weather certainly can't figure out which direction it wants to head, or what season it actually is. Mt Bachelor closed a couple weeks ago, but there is still plenty of snow in the high country for backcountry skiing. My roommate Chris and I enjoyed an afternoon of kite-skiing a couple weekends ago. Using his snowmobile we cruised back to the Three Sisters Wilderness boundary and made laps through the open country between Bald Butte and Broken Top. It is a great way to learn the basics of kiting, as you don't have to worry about getting out of the water and standing up on a board/skis. You can certainly cover some distance quickly, and even cruise uphill if the wind allows.

Then the weather changed. Quickly. The next weekend the temperature reached 96 degrees in Bend. The snow started to melt faster than normal. The rivers were raging. And the mountain bike trails began to open quickly. Everyone felt the sunburn as they were unaccustomed to the radical climate change.

This week it has been raining. Many folks are depressed or upset by the rain, but it will do wonders for the trails, keep the fires away for a while, and clean the streets of all the cinder left over from last Winter. The last time we had any precipitation in Bend was about 5 weeks ago when it snowed one day. We certainly need the rain.

Winter is not over yet

2008-04-24T19:35:00.001-07:00

I made it back to Oregon just in time to catch a few last Winter storm cycles. It took a little re-adjusting to the colder conditions, but my main impetus for returning home so early this year was so that I could get in some skiing. I certainly haven't been disappointed. Mt Bachelor will be closing early this year, May 18th, even though we have a huge base in the mountains, and it keeps coming down. It will be a LONG time before the mountain bike trails to the West of town are clear.

My friend and co-worker Pedro was in Hood River last week, having flown up from Baja to finish up the paperwork and finances from Vela's previous season. It was cold and Wintery in town last weekend, so I had the opportunity to see Mr. Boot playing in the snow. We went up to Mt Hood Meadows for a day of skiing and snowboarding. Even though it has been a while since Pedro was in the snow, he rallied and was turning like a pro by the end of the afternoon!

I have been working at Pine Mountain Sports for the last few weeks. It is a fun place to be: my coworkers all have a positive and fun attitude, it is a very social establishment, we have all the new telemark skis to demo, and Ginger gets to come to work with me and acts as the official greeter. It might be late Summer before many of our bike trips with Cogwild are able to reach the Cascade Lakes, but I hear that interest in this area is still on the rise and we already have a few custom tours scheduled.

Hope everyone is doing well. Sorry for the lack of frequent updates to the blog. Obviously it has been a super-busy few weeks for me. But Ginger and I are doing very well, thank you, and we are looking forward to Springtime, if it ever shows up...

Culture shock

2008-04-01T21:29:00.001-07:00

It is a hard transition when you go from this:

to this:

in just a few days...

Changing of the seasons...

2008-03-18T23:16:00.000-07:00

So, it has come full-circle and we have finished our Winter season here in Baja. The gear is gone, the pieces of our resort packed back in the bodegas for the summer, the board rack is empty, and many of the seasonal fun-seekers have departed Mexico for their homes in the US and Canada. I am preparing for the long commute back to the NW and my seasonal employment up in Oregon. This has been a long and productive stint in Los Barriles, Baja California Sur, but now I am looking forward to some Spring skiing and life back in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. I postponed my departure for a couple days, due to wind and warm conditions, but it has been nice to take advantage of the beauty and tranquility that is Baja.

I am packed and ready to leave, now. Had a great mountain bike ride this morning, and a great sailing session this afternoon. What a way to wrap up a good season. I spent about 4 hours on the water, taking full advantage of classic Baja conditions. Thanks Lynn (for use of the JP Pro 92l board) and Dean (for the 5.6 NP Combat), the perfect rig for typical Baja condtions. I sailed until my whole body was sore. Finally it was just me and Pedro on the water. I can almost hang with the Dutchie at full speed. But I can only hold on for so long... Rod and Bev had the whole crew over for margaritas this evening, then we had a nice dinner at the new place in town, El Dorado. Leaving on a good note.

I feel like this is the perfect time to leave Los Barriles. Ginger and I both had a great time playing in the Sea of Cortez today. I had the perfect mix of music on my ipod shuffle during my ride this morning. I completed most of my jibes this afternoon, and caught more air on Lysta's board than she would have liked to see. But the most exciting thing is that I have won the last 3 games of croquet...

I am sure that I will have plenty of time to reflect on the happenings of this Winter as I am driving up one of the most beautiful and exciting roads in the world. I am happy for what has transpired this last season. I have met some amazing people, I have taken my sailing to the next level, and I have figured some things out about myself that I am sure will help me better deal with life's challenges. I am happy that I was involved with organizing the Vela Resort this year, and that it was a successful venture.

I am looking forward to seeing all my friends in the Northwest very soon. I have many tales to tell of the goings-on down here. And I look forward to another change of perspective...

Rancho La Venta

2008-03-16T09:38:00.000-07:00

We visited our friends Bob and Liz at their Rancho on Friday. They have a huge piece of property about 40km north of Los Barriles where they guide horseback and hiking trips, grow vegetables and fruits, and have recently begun a vineyard on one of their sunny slopes. We had a great time exploring the San Bartolo Arroyo, passing huge granite washes with running water and surveying the lush desert, which is much greener and more dense than the lower elevations where we live. From their house you have a panoramic view of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range, and at night there is not a single man-made light visible in any direction. We were treated to a huge barbeque, including fresh vegetables and salads. Of course, we brought the croquet set and constucted a tough course on top of the hill.

Pisces Celebration

2008-03-08T06:20:00.000-08:00

We helped Pedro celebrate his 40th birthday on Wednesday night with a big fiesta out at Playa Norte. There was a potluck dinner, bonfire, doggy circus, and, of course, a huge croquet match with 15 people playing at the same time. Pedro and Rodney knocked themselves out of the game early so it came down to Mac and me chasing each other all over the arroyo. The kid managed to win his first game ever! We went through about 50 ballenas, a case of wine, and countless tequila sunrises and cuba libres that night. We were all a little worn out from sailing, so the action didn't go too late after midnight.

The wind gods have continued to please the sailors and disappoint the fishermen, allowing us to sail every day of our final week here at Vela. On Thursday I took out Pedro's JP Pro Wave 73 board and a 4.2 sail, the smallest gear I have used this season. The swell and the waves were huge and intimidating, but the ramps were set up just right and everyone had a great time out there. Rick Lowrey said it was his best day of sailing ever in Baja. He's been coming here for almost 20 years, so that says a lot.

Today is the last official day that we are open at the Vela Resort. Tomorrow we will begin the task of cleaning and boxing the gear up for the trip back to Hood River. Meanwhile, the forecast is for more wind...

Closing week

2008-03-04T07:17:00.001-08:00

It is really hard to believe that we close the Vela resort in just a few days. We only have two guests with us until the end. We have already taken down one of the sail tents, cleaned and boxed most of the sails and boards, and have prepped it all for easy dismantling. The bicycles have all been sold, so I don't have to worry about taking them apart. The truck is scheduled to arrive next Tuesday to haul everything back to Hood River. Then that's it for the Winter season...

Made an excursion down to Cabo Pulmo last Friday with Tricia, Debbie, and Marlies. It was a calm day back in Los Barriles, so we were surprised to see white caps on the water as we came over the pass from La Ribera and dropped into the bay. But the wind was from the South and the snorkeling was phenomenal. Sightings included an octopus, a large eel, countless colorful reef dwellers, and something rather large chasing the fish just off the point. Ginger swam for hours and Gijs chased lizards in the rocks.

Saturday evening we were treated to a party at Casa Lowrey in the Buena Vista Arroyo. Rick and Cathy go all out in preparing the festivities, and their house was built for entertaining: the kitchen and living area fully open up to the wide patio, which leads right out to the beach, and two levels of decks accessed by a spiral staircase to look out over it all. We had a huge feast of birria prepared by Veronica. There was plenty of Pacifico on ice. Washed it all down with a couple pieces of flan. Finch and I barely had enough energy left after the long day, but we rallied to go meet the Hood River gals over at Tio Pablo's, where the Skeleton Keys were playing. Now I can't get a certain Grateful Dead cover song out of my head...

Looks like the wind is doing us, and our guests, a favor by returning for our final week. After a few calm days it kicked in again yesterday with some of the strongest gusts of the season. We all sailed until we were sore. I had a great time on the Evo 80 again. It feels and acts like a short snowboard, turning on a dime and slicing through the nasty chop that occurs when El Norte meets a strong South swell. The water here is different every time you sail. That is what is so exciting about the Sea of Cortez, and the forced adjustments help you improve as a sailor with every session. Got to take advantage of these last few opportunities...

Dia de la Bandera

2008-02-26T06:32:00.001-08:00

Rob arrived in Baja California Sur last Tuesday, followed by John a few days later. We have known each other for almost all of our lives, as the three of us went to Montessori school together. I have appreciated the opportunity to show my friends around this special part of the world, and having the chance for them to meet the people who I spend a big part of my life with. We explored all the mountain bike trails, visited all the taquerias, played croquet, ate ceviche and sashimi, watched the lunar eclipse and saw the full moon rise out of the Sea of Cortez, spotted an iridium flare (magnitude 8), and had a great time reminiscing.

It seems as though the weather has turned the corner, leaving Winter behind, and now we are enjoying warmer nights and hot, dry, sunny days. The water is still mucho frio, but it feels pretty good after a long mountain bike ride in the desert.

Sunday was Dia de la Bandera, which is Flag Day in Mexico. One of the biggest landmarks in the East Cape is the Monumento a la Bandera which is situated on a cliff just south of Los Barriles. Each year at this location we are treated to a wide range of festivites: singing, dancing, running races, food vendors from all over Baja, and many people wearing traditional outfits. At the end of all the ceremonies they raise the flag, which is about 50m long. It is so big that you can see it all the way from Punta Pescadero to the north. The wind was blowing very strong all day so the flag only went half-mast, then they took it down immediately so it wouldn't get torn. The last few years we have had a mountain bike race on this weekend, as many of our singletrack trails are situated just west of the monument, but it didn't happen this year. I think Leo was happy about that, as it was probably one of the hardest things he had ever done.

I am off to the airport this morning, unfortunately. Time goes by very quickly down here, our guests come and go all season long. But visits with friends and family seem so much shorter. One of the most common phrases, which we state almost daily, is "But you just got here!" I think that there are just so many things to do here in Baja, so many interesting places to visit, so much beauty, that it can be overwhelming and you never feel fulfilled. That is what keeps most people coming back year after year. I definitely value the time I have spent with everyone, no matter how brief it may seem.

The show goes on...

2008-02-19T07:25:00.000-08:00

Claude left us on Saturday, returning to the Great White North on what was, unfortunately for him, the windiest day of the season. After a couple days off, El Norte returned with a vengeance, producing some of the most active, choppiest sailing conditions we have had here in Baja so far this Winter. We were all reeling a little from the going-away party on Friday night so it was a slow start getting on the water. The previous evening we had an emotional game of croquet at the Vela center, dinner at La Curva Restaurant, followed by a late karaoke session at Tio Pablo's. Needless to say, Claude was still in a haze when the taxi picked him up at 10am. We were all a little puffy-eyed that morning: was it the margaritas or were we just saddened by the departure of Il Pirata?

Saturday night we journeyed down to Rancho Leonero for the famous BBQ rib buffet. It is situated at the base of Flat Top, a big hill across the bay from Los Barriles. The resort had been closed all season for renovation and finally opened last week. We had planned on making a big down-winder and sailing down that afternoon, but the conditions were too rough and we ended up driving down there. We arrived early to set up the croquet course on the fine grass lawn. The hotel looks great. There is a nice new palapa roof over the dining area, the bar has been opened up a little, and the grounds are clean and tidy. The ribs were better than ever.

Sunday I finally made peace with the Starboard Evo 80 and a 5.2 Expression. The last experience I had with that small wave board was not a great one, so either I have improved as a sailor or I had the rig set up better this time. I am definitely more comfortable and in control, sailing faster than ever, and am making most of my jibes.

Finally, a little break from sailing

2008-02-14T09:29:00.000-08:00

I know, you thought you would never hear me utter those words. But it has been an action packed week on the water and I think everyone is glad for a little break. The wind had been getting a little lighter each day and we were sailing bigger gear each day. With fewer folks at the hotel there were times when we had more Vela staff on the water than guests. Needless to say, the croquet set has still been getting some serious use.

We have some changes at Vela this last week. Thomas and Maurits have returned to Holland a little earlier than scheduled. We didn't have many pre-booked kite lessons for them, so they packed up Kirra the dog in a travel crate, got the necessary paperwork from the vet, and flew home. The same day saw the arrival of Meredith, our new windsurf instructor from Berkeley. She has adjusted to life in Baja very easily and has been busy with beginner lessons already. Claude will be heading back to Montreal this weekend to deal with some unfortunate family business. We will be a little short-handed for the end of the season. Luckily we only have two guests during our final week so we will be able to start boxing up the equipment and breaking down the center a little early.

The calmer days have given us the chance to use the stand-up paddleboards some more. I have taken Ginger out for a few long paddle sessions. She loves swimming alongside me as we cruise out past the boats and buoys, checking out the fish and sea life. We had a little photo shoot with the longboards the other evening, trying the traditional surfer pose, but it was too windy and we couldn't hold them up straight for long enough!

Ramal los Naranjos

2008-02-04T20:44:00.000-08:00

I had breakfast early this morning over at the Hotel Playa del Sol, and had the cafeteria staff pack a couple extra burritos "para llevar" in preparation of a big mountain bike ride today. Ellen and her daughter Fiona were kind enough to drop Lynn, Rahel, Mateo, and me off just south of Miraflores, at the beginning of the Ramal los Naranjos. This is a rough road that crosses the Sierra de la Laguna from Miraflores, on the Sea of Cortez side of Baja, over to Todos Santos, on the Pacific side. You cross over 3 big passes along one of the most beautiful, desolate, and exposed dirt backroads in Baja. There are ranches and shrines and blue palms and granite washes and waterfalls to explore along the way. The weather was perfect, just a little cooler than normal.

Everyone was cheerful and upbeat and we kept a steady pace all day, finishing the ride in about 5 1/2 hours. Glad to say that we had no mechanical problems, flat tires, or injuries. We even had an extended lunch break, climbing along some granite rock gardens up a huge canyon to an area of waterfalls and swimming pools. Had a great chance to do my best lizard imitation and sprawl out on the smooth rock to soak up the sun.

After descending all the way down to the Pacific Ocean, we made a quick stop at Playa Cerritos, the famous surfing beach, for a couple cervezas before the drive home. This area has been heavily developed in the last couple years, but the waves were huge and the water was warm and the sand is a little softer than we have in Los Barriles. We were treated to a great display of whale action just past the surf break. There were constant spouts and backs and tails coming out of the ocean, as far as you could see in any direction. I have never seen so many whales in one place.

It has been calm here the last couple days, so it was a perfect day to escape the resort. The wind is due to return tomorrow...

Gone fishin'

2008-01-24T16:59:00.000-08:00

Knowing that it would be a calm day on the Sea of Cortez, we took Monday off from work and went fishing as a sort of team-building exercise. Pedro organized a day aboard the boat named "Suzy T," which we were promised has been the most prolific vessel in the fleet at the Hotel Palmas de Cortez. It started out as a cold and overcast day, but we were greeted by one of the most beautiful sunrises of the season. We had a very good day chasing sierra and bonita and dorado all over the bay, and came home with over 30 kilos of fish filets. Martin and Leo prepared fresh sashimi and ceviche for everyone to devour at the palapa bar.

It has been cloudy and cold here lately, dipping into the 50's (F) at night. It has continued to be windy this week, although it has not appeared as strong or forceful as it was last month. Still, we are able to sail every day. The croquet matches have become quite intense, as Jerry and Janice, Michael and Jane, and the other guests have obviously been practicing since they were here last year...

Back in the swing of things

2008-01-19T07:31:00.000-08:00

I drove down to Cabo San Lucas on my day off this week to stock up on dog food and groceries and to just get out of town for a short bit. It was the first time I had been down there in a couple years, and now I remember why I try to avoid it. The bay was occupied by huge cruise ships, the parasailers were everywhere, and the traffic was tough to deal with. I made it back to Los Barriles by noon, though, as I knew it was going to be windy for the first time in a few days. Having just one day off a week doesn't make it easy to explore the surrounding area, but starting in a week or two we will be changing that so everyone can have some more free time.

The resort is almost full again, as folks have heard about the great wind conditions, and the new changes at Vela, and have booked vacations recently. We had thought things were winding down, but it is good to see some more action at the windsurf center.

This should be a fun weekend. Jerry and Janice, Michael and Jane, and other regular guests arrived yesterday and will be here for a couple weeks. Ron, who was the bicycle guide for Vela before me, surprised us by arriving a few days ago. He works for NOAA up in Alaska and hasn't been anywhere with a temperature greater than 70 degrees in over 4 years. Unfortunately that is about the warmest it gets right now in Baja. We have had a cold spell for the last couple weeks, reminding us that it is still Winter.

The wind is already blowing, so today promises some good action. Off to work I go...

Is the "answer" blowing in the wind?

2008-01-13T16:07:00.000-08:00

You could probably tell from my lack of recent updates to this blog that it has been windy and we have been very busy at the Vela Center. After a few days of sailing bigger gear we have been blessed with strong, steady winds again. With fewer guests at the resort we are all able to take longer lunch breaks and enjoy the excellent conditions on the water. I have been very happy with my progression on the windsurf gear. I am completing most of my jibes now, not always carrying my speed or even pretty, but that doesn't matter. I am very comfortable on small gear in the windiest conditions, which will help me in the Gorge next summer. I haven't lived up to my New Year's resolution to spend more time kiteboarding, but it is still early January and lighter-wind days will be better for that anyway.

The gusty conditions lately have changed our view of the ocean. The sea swell and waves have eroded the beach in front of the hotel, revealing the rocks beneath the sand and forcing us to bury the "no launch or land" sign again. Of course, some folks still get caught up in the waves and get washed up on the shore. Doctor Rod has tended to more than a few lacerated feet and twisted ankles.

I have been taking care of my friends Matt and Jackie's home while they are enjoying some skiing in Tahoe this week. Their house is situated on top of the hill between the two arroyos north of town, offering fantastic views of Los Barriles and the Sea of Cortez. It is an amazing work of architecture as the house is cantilevered over the side of the hill. They have very prolific gardens, of which many are on a timed watering system, luckily. I have taken full advantage of the hot tub, laundry machine, and espresso maker. I even had my coworkers over for pizza and movies on the big television a few nights ago.

I have been checking out the conditions at the ski resorts back in the States. I am glad to see that this Winter has been good for everyone. I hope it continues through the Spring, as I still intend to be back in Oregon in the middle of March to make some turns with my friends...

Feliz Ano Nuevo

2008-01-04T09:58:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!!!

This has definitely been one of the most memorable holiday seasons that I have had in Baja. The wind has been blowing constantly for quite a while and I have sailed every single day for over 2 weeks now, the longest stretch that anyone can remember in recent years. It doesn't leave much time for rest or recuperation, but nobody is complaining. The timing couldn't be better as we have just made it through our busiest time of the season. The resort had been completely booked through January 1st. Most of those folks are departing this weekend, and our guest list will taper down until we finally close in early March. It is now time to catch our breath and relax a little. Hard to believe that we are about halfway through the season already...

On New Year's Eve I went to see the Needlefish play their annual gig at the restaurant Otra Vez. They are a jam band comprised of local windsurfers and fun-seekers. It is a rare night in Baja when so many people are awake until midnight. After a champagne toast and a quick fireworks display, though, everyone hastily made their way home to prepare for another day full of activities on the water.

Today is my day off, and it is perhaps the calmest morning that we have had in a couple weeks, giving me a chance to sleep in and catch up on emails. With all the action going on I have been delinquent in keeping in touch with everyone. Last Friday I was on the water for the most hours ever in a day, and I have been wearing myself out ever since. We were out late last night having fresh sushi and sashimi with our Belgian guests, Jean-Paul and Frederika, who have to leave today after 2 epic weeks here at Vela. They went fishing yesterday and caught about 30 kilos of dorado and sierra, which the chefs over at Palmas de Cortez cooked up for us.

Now the palm trees are swaying and I feel a slight breeze, again. I am heading to North Beach for a kiteboard session. I haven't had many chances to leave the center lately, so I've been focusing mostly on windsurfing this season. My only resolution for the new year is to spend more time kiting, hopefully starting today...

Feliz Navidad

2007-12-25T10:07:00.000-08:00

Hope everyone is in good health, happy spirits, and enjoying the holiday season. Sometimes it is hard to immerse yourself in the "Christmas Spirit" living in the tropics. But the church bells are ringing, the streets are empty, and everyone around the world is celebrating this occasion in their own way.

I went for a long mountain bike ride this morning, and now the wind is picking up so I'll head out on the water for a sailing or kiting session this afternoon. It is warm and sunny today, perfect for the holiday. Santa will be coming down the beach in about an hour or so, bringing goodies for all the kids at the hotel. We will have the traditional smashing of the pinata this afternoon, followed by a huge turkey buffet at the hotel, and a bonfire on the beach following the feast.

I would like to take this opportunity to say how much I appreciate the love and support I have received from all my friends and family. Sometimes it is tough being so far removed, physically, from everyone, especially during the holidays. But I feel very lucky to have known each and every one of you, and I am proud to have had you in my life. I take solace in the fact that I will never truly be alone...

Mucho trabajo

2007-12-21T07:17:00.000-08:00

This is the busiest time of the year here at the Vela Resort. The hotel is at capacity through New Year's, and we are entertaining a few familiar families and meeting many new friends. Michael Price, the most consistent and frequent guest that Vela Baja has ever had, is leaving today, but he vows to return in January. He actually tried to extend his stay, but we don't have his room available. Besides, his family would probably like to see him for Christmas.

It certainly makes things easier for us when the wind is blowing, as it has been for the last week. You know that you have had great conditions when you can't remember how many days in a row you have gotten out on the water! Today is probably going to be a little lighter, so I'm heading up to Playa Norte to relax and hopefully get out kiteboarding. I have been spending more time there lately, organizing and settling into the trailer on the beach. I have been sleeping much better without the dogs and chickens waking me up in the night. Plus, the clouds we have had here lately have made for some spectacular sunrises.

We lost another of the Dutchies this week. Maurits finally received the stickers and registration for his van, then promptly took off for the Pacific side in search of waves. His birthday, last Saturday, was the first one in 10 years that he hadn't been able to surf. He will be back in a few weeks, but then he'll be off for the mainland with his new companion, Kirra, who we rescued on the beach on Claude's birthday last month. We are a little short-handed now, but after New Year's, everything will gradually wind down until closing time in March.

I'm glad to see that everyone in the NW and the Rockies is getting some snow this week. Get some turns in for me! I would be a little jealous of a white Christmas. Right up to the point where I throw on some sunscreen and go out to play in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez...

Dia de descanso

2007-12-14T16:54:00.000-08:00

Ginger and I had the day off today. I spent the morning taking care of some long-overdue bike maintenance. I've already gone through a set of tires and a few Slime tubes, and after the recent rain I needed to replace my derailleur cables.

Wednesday saw the biggest wind of the year so far. It came in so hard and fast that the Sea of Cortez was super-choppy and rough. I was overpowered on a 4.7 and a Pure Acid wave board and was holding on for dear life. Most of our guests were completely wasted and sore after just an hour of sailing.

I was pleasantly surprised to see the palm trees swaying in our yard just after noon today. I had been prepping the Palomino trailer to move up to Playa Norte, but after fixing a flat tire and cleaning out the dust I went over to the center to see what was happening. I had to dig for my shorty, since the water has been so warm I've only worn board shorts so far this season. I jumped on a 120l JP board and grabbed a 6.5 Expression and immediately headed upwind. I stopped in to say "hola" to the kiters and other folks at North Beach, grabbed a brownie and a cup of water from Dave, then held on for the downwind ride back to Vela. I made it back just as the sunset was lighting up the mountains to the West.

Earlier in the week I had some conflict with our Swiss neighbor Henry, after he took a rake and shovel to some of the local mountain bike trails. By the end of the season most of the ruts and technical spots get worn in after a few hundred rides on them, so it is fun to enjoy the extra challenges and problems while they are there. Mateo and some of the other locals were outraged by the "dumbing down" in difficulty, and since I am really the warden and caretaker of the singletrack network I had to hear it from everyone. Funny how this happens in Bend as well. I walked over to Henry's place and we had a heart-to-heart talk and resolved the issue. At least I have maintained the integrity of Pemex Ridge, which is the best trail around...

I'm settling in with a Ballena before our bonfire on the beach tonight, then, who knows, maybe some karaoke at Tio's...

Improvements to the streets of Los Barriles

2007-12-13T17:14:00.000-08:00

So, this gives the handicapped access to what? At least they are trying...

"No, it never rains in Baja..."

2007-11-30T14:31:00.001-08:00

Although I have heard that in the past we have gone through the whole winter season without any precipitation here in Los Barriles, that has not been the case the last couple years. But I guess rain in November is still very rare, so that makes the last two days special. It made it easier for me to sleep in and relax in bed this morning, listening to the raindrops falling outside. I finally roused myself, strapped on my camelbak, ipod shuffle, and my trusted machete, packed a small lunch, and headed up to Pemex Ridge for a mountain bike ride. I had heard stories of the massive overgrowth on the hiking/biking trail up there and was prepared for the worst. I spent the better part of the morning and afternoon cutting through the cholla, pitaya, cardon and various cacti, and now I am proud to say that the entire network of singletrack here is open for business. The trails are severely rutted from all the rain we received during the hurricanes in September, but they are fun and technical, just the way I like them, and will get filled in quickly as I take our guests for rides this winter.

Before the storms and clouds arrived it had been pretty windy. I sailed most every day this week, using smaller gear every day as the wind increased. Yesterday I extended my lunch break, spending most of the afternoon on the water, and kept coming back to shore to trade for smaller sails and boards as the old familiar rolling swell on the Sea of Cortez returned for the first time this year.

Went out to El Japones, one of our favorite eateries over in Buena Vista, for dinner last night. I have to admit that he still makes the best hamburguesas in town. Business must be good as he has a new concrete structure around the kitchen and all 3 employees are now wearing white shirts and hats. Very official!

Hard to believe we have been open for 2 weeks already. Time certainly flies by down here. I think I need a haircut already...

Careful what you ask for...

2007-11-24T22:14:00.001-08:00

The first week of business has passed us by, and our first wave of guests have already departed. The wind returned with a vengeance at about 2 o'clock this morning, but it came out of the mountains from the West and blew straight offshore all day. The wind line remained just outside the fishing boats. It made for very tricky launching and landing, so only the most intrepid, and skilled, sailors ventured out on the water.

Tonight we had one of those special moments when the full moon rises out of the Sea of Cortez just as the sun sets in the Sierra de la Laguna to the West. The cloud cover made for some spectacular colors. Everyone put down their croquet mallets and margaritas and cheered at the sight.

The final shipment of bicycles and windsurfing equipment finally showed up just after dark this evening. The new retail shop is now open. Marlise has been working very hard to get it filled with this year's t-shirts, hoodies, bikinis, and caps. Finch rigged a car stereo to a marine battery in the window of the store, so now we have music playing all day. Everything is settling into place nicely for the season...

Open for business

2007-11-19T21:12:00.000-08:00

We officially opened for the 2007-2008 season on Saturday, and, just like clockwork, the wind arrived along with our first guests. We still haven't received all our equipment yet (the first bicycles arrived late last night) but we had enough gear rigged for everyone to enjoy themselves. I took a quick break mid-day to get out on the water myself. I was nervous, as I haven't sailed since leaving Los Barriles last Spring, but I jumped on a brand new Starboard Kombat, matched with a new NP 6.2 Hellcat on a skinny carbon mast, and quickly found myself cruising way too fast out into the Sea of Cortez. I even managed to complete my first jibe attempt!

This past weekend was the annual Carnival in Los Barriles. Each town in Mexico has its own holiday. Workers were scrambling to finish laying concrete on the main street, which is named 20 de Noviembre after the festival, and it was quite amusing to see the last bit of the street being laid out amidst all the food vendors and carnival rides late in the evening. The ferris wheel, a rickety old structure run by a tractor engine, was the center of attention. We all feasted on tacos al pastor made by a family from Ensenada that makes the annual trek down to the East Cape this time every year. And nothing beats a bag of fresh, hot churros after a big meal.

I am glad to announce that the mountain bike trail system is open for business. I spent one long day cutting through the cholla and cardon cacti, moving quite a few trees out of the way, but the singletrack is all rideable. The rain from the hurricanes left some huge ruts down the middle of some of the trail, but it will get filled in soon enough. The riding is very technical and hard for most folks. A nice full suspension bike helps smooth it out considerably. Just the way I like it...

The Vela center is looking great. We have a nice new concrete store to display all our t-shirts, hoodies, rash guards, and other retail merchandise. Finch has installed a loud stereo so we can all listen to music when hanging out on the beach. You can even hear the tunes when you are out on the water sailing, kayaking, or snorkeling. The hotel has a new deck and bar upstairs by the cafeteria, and everything is running smoothly, so far. It has been great seeing all the regular guests again. Many of the other "locals" have been arriving in town, and everyone is looking forward to another fantastic season in this special part of the world.

Settling in for the Winter

2007-11-09T20:33:00.001-08:00

Ginger and I made it to Los Barriles in record time. I felt bad leaving the Westfalia in Oregon, but it made a huge difference having cruise control and AC for the drive down the peninsula. We made it all the way from San Diego to the Hotel Malarrimo in Guerrero Negro the first night. Then, in one long push, we cruised into the Hotel Playa del Sol by sunset on Thursday. Had the usual close close calls with cows and dogs, plus one exciting encounter with the Federales outside of San Quintin. I thought for sure that I was being pulled over for speeding or passing that truck on the blind corner, but after following me for about 5km I guess he lost interest and let me go.

This is going to be a very interesting season here at the Vela Windsurf Resort. I am the only American working here this year. I was just getting comfortable conversing more in Spanish. Now I will have to learn some Dutch to communicate with my new coworkers, as Pedro has brought in a whole crew from the Netherlands to help set up the center. As usual, the gear won't arrive until a day or two before we open for business and we will be rushed to rig all the windsurfing gear and build the bikes and assemble all the sail tents and board racks. It is still very hot here in Baja and no amount of SPF30 could deter me from getting sunburnt on the first day working outside on the beach. No complaints, though. The water is warm and the wind is blowing.

The town of Los Barriles has changed quite a bit in the few months since I left. There is a huge new retail plaza at the entrance to town, the hotel has been repainted and touched up, and the main street has been bulldozed and is ready for paving. They hope to have everything done in time for the carnival on November 20th. In the mean time there is no access to the shops and restaurants and RV parks, except by foot or bicycle. All the seasonal fun-seekers will have to set up their temporary homes elsewhere.

It has been nice to see all my friends and acquaintances. Everyone is excited for the upcoming season. There is always a buzz going through town as the Vela crew arrives. It is not unlike a circus act: we show up with all the latest gear, build huge tents and structures, put up flags and signs all over town, then we leave a few months later. My next job is to see what kind of damage the hurricanes have done to the mountain bike trails. I'll keep ya posted...

2007-10-25T14:20:00.000-07:00

Changing of the seasons...

2007-10-25T13:11:00.001-07:00

It has been a rapid transition from Summer to Autumn here in Bend, Oregon. The trees have dropped most of their colorful leaves after the first storms of the season rolled through the Cascades this past week. There is snow on Mt Bachelor and the Sisters and the high-alpine trails have been covered with blankets of white and put to rest for the winter.

The end of the riding season means it is time for Bend's Big Fat Tour. Three days of epic riding on the area's best trails and the chance to hang out with some of the most dedicated mountain bikers in Oregon. Friday's ride visited the Ochoco's for the first time in BBFT history, and the most hardy riders trudged through snow and mud to conquer both Round and Lookout Mountains in one day. Saturday was the longest day with the classic ride around Mt Bachelor and back to town. Sunday's route included the traditional climb up to Cache Mountain west of Sisters, and as a pleasant surprise we saw the best weather of the weekend.

We finished the season for Cog Wild Bicycle Tours with three days of riding along the North Umpqua River Trail last weekend. It rained through the weekend and we rode in a few inches of snow along the Dread and Terror section from Lemolo Lake to the Hot Springs. But it was the prime time to see the maples dropping their golden yellow and shiny red leaves.

As has been the case for the last few years I am preparing for a long commute to my seasonal employment with Vela Windsurf Resorts in Los Barriles, Baja California Sur, Mexico. I am looking forward to a season of the tropical life: mountain biking, sailing, kiting, gulping ice-cold Ballenas, and enjoying the company of my "seasonal friends." But it is hard to give up the stability and security of a "normal" life, and I am leaving with much reluctance and more than a few regrets. I have learned much about myself through the experiences of this past Summer and Fall, and have had to re-evaluate my priorities and wants and needs. Does life ever get easier? Does it ever stop changing? What I do know is that road trips give you the time to think about life's situations, and the pace of life in Baja offers many chances for introspection. And so I shall depart the NW with a new resolve and outlook on life and I intend to make this a most memorable and exciting season.